About the Parts

I finally can report some progress on the bike build job. Bottom bracket, crankset and derailleurs are installed (although no doubt much adjustment will be needed to the latter once chain and cables are installed.) For the most part, I referred to Park Tools' website for building order and general directions. Another favorite source is Lennard Zinn's "Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance" (2nd edition, new in 2006). I have three volumes of the four volume Barnetts manual, but, unfortunately began to accumulate these just before the update to the current 5th edition so find the older version (dates about 1996 I believe) a little less helpful than some newer information I can access. I am at a stopping point, however, as I await a headset (more on this in the next post). I am also, sooner rather than later, going to have to make a decision on the sizing of the fork steerer tube which may be a little difficult as I have never yet had a bike set up exclusively for time trial/triathlon riding (i.e., with bar end shifters installed in the aero bars rather than clip on aero bars on a road bike).

DISCLAIMER: Any product information included in this and other posts is, for the most part based, on my own experiences and/or opinions. I attempt to describe the rationales behind my decision-making, but my experiences and needs are unique so I hope no one takes anything I say as a recommendation to use (or not to use) given products. I provide links for further information and reference only, not as suggestions for purchase. I attempt to research thoroughly before making purchases (looking at both product/performance reviews and price comparisons) and I would encourage everyone else to do the same.

In the previous post, I assembled and photographed the various components. I was surprised as I accumulated parts how well most of the pieces of an entire bicycle fit in a small box. Bars, aero bars, stem and seat post are all by Profile Design, who have a large presence among triathletes and also manufacture accessories in what I consider an affordable price range, although you can spend quite a lot if you want on some of the carbon parts. Over time, I've grown to like the Fast Forward seat post, and used one when I was riding a road bike with clip on aero bars last summer. I chose the T2 + aero bar and companion T2 wing base bar as I prefer two piece aero bars and I wanted to give myself as flat a position as possible. The T2+ satisfied both of those conditions. I am still not certain as far as stem length goes as I was most recently riding aero position on the 2001 Schwinn Supersport mentioned in a prior post, as it has a quill stem. I'm using a 110 mm on my road bike so bought a 100 mm to start with - it is a Profile Design Lava (OS) which I chose largely because it is looks good with the base bar.
The grouppo for this bike is largely Shimano Ultegra 9 speed. I made this decision based on the fact that I could get 9 speed components for a great price since Shimano has shifted (no pun intended) to 10 speed. The price difference between Dura Ace and Ultegra, even looking at 9 speed components, is still significant, and I've observed great performance and reliability from Ultegra parts. The minimal weight difference just doesn't seem terribly significant to me. The most expensive part of a normal road grouppo, the shifter/brake levers, aren't relevant in this situation. The bar end shifters I purchased are Dura Ace (I don't believe Shimano makes any other model) and I have both a Dura Ace and an Ultegra cassette, each 11-23. (I plan to use the Dura Ace on my 'good' wheels and put the Ultegra on another set of road wheels I'll use as training/back ups for this bike.) I have ridden with an 11-23 9 speed cassette for a few years now (although I swapped it for a 12-28 in New Mexico), and it seems to provide a good enough range for me, especially in the relatively flat part of the country I live in now. I'm using Cane Creek aero brake levers (the less expensive ones, not the carbon ones), and I have my choice of a Shimano Dura Ace or Sram Power Link chain. (The power link is a lot easier to work with if you have the Park Tools Master Link Pliers.)
I will be riding on Neuvation C 38 C carbon clincher wheels.
I raved about another set of Neuvations in a prior post - I had already decided to buy the carbon wheels and bought the M28s for my cyclocross bike at the same time. I considered going with tubulars but I have no experience at all with tubular wheels/tires, the tires are really expensive, and I had read that there aren't great adhesive choices for carbon rims yet. I also preferred having a non carbon braking surface which these clinchers offer (pads for carbon cost quite a bit more). Neuvation makes a deeper rim clincher (C 48 C) but I have never liked valve extensions and I figured it would be easier and cheaper to find tubes to fit the 38s. (Another factor is that there is a price difference between the C 38s and the C 48s as well.) I have had lots of flats, including flats in races, so I tend to think not only of prevention to the extent possible, but also of speed and ease of changing tubes should it become necessary. If anything, I erred on the side of being conservative when choosing wheels. I think the Neuvations are about the most competitively priced carbon wheels around although they are still, relatively speaking, quite expensive. I was also very pleased with the service I received dealing with John Neugent; it was nice to deal with a small business and the business owner rather than a some corporation. And I got a free wheelbag, too!
coming up: headset surprise! what I think about pedals; two cyclometers to choose from