skip to main |
skip to sidebar
(Picture above: Members of the "Credit Aquatique" cycling team start some early season conditioning)
You would think I would have noticed that there were no headset cups visible on the fully built Schwinn Factory that hangs on a bike rack in my living room. (In fact, I actually did, the bottom one at least, but somehow didn't make the connection). Had I really been thinking and done the research, I now wonder if I would have been so determined to use the same frame for my TT bike as I have mixed feelings about and no experience with integrated headsets. Apparently, beginning in 1998, Schwinn bikes used some of the first integrated headsets. Mountain bikes and many of the 2001 Factory road bikes came equipped with an ICBM headset. (Researching other Fastback Factory road bikes has shown me that some instead came with, perhaps installed by the shop or dealer, a Cane Creek IS integrated headset. Of course the ICBM was made by Aheadset, which is in fact Cane Creek.) I located sources for ICBM, Cane Creek (various models) and FSA integrated headsets (there are a couple of other non compatible standards) and I'm hoping, despite not finding any absolute assurance, (the ICBM absolutely works on certain Schwinn "mountain bikes" without mention of the homegrown road frames) that the Cane Creek IS 2 now on order (in fact on backorder to get what I thought was a reasonable price) will fit this frame. I have seen enough positive reviews on integrated headsets to counter my fears about the negatives (seen a lot of negative comments from Chris King) although I tend to think that this is one of those technological 'improvements' that has a basis more in trying to force everyone to change what they have than in a multitude of realized benefits. Since this bike should be used, for the most part, only for racing and optimum condition training (i.e., on the local rails to trails and not generally on actual roads other than in races) I'm less concerned about having the type of damage to the headset that might ruin the frame. And, I'm (sometimes) up for trying out something new and different, as long as it isn't prohibitively expensive (like switching to tubular wheels and tires seemed to be). I have to admit that, aesthetically speaking, the IS system is a plus in that it won't interfere with the excellent paint job on the frame/fork. Headset cups do tend to look sort of 'clunky' when you see then next to bikes with IS. But my progress is going to slow waaaay down, not only due to waiting for the headset to arrive, but also due to the fact that the school semester begins next Tuesday. There are two breaks this semester - one of about 2 days (plus the weekend) in February, and spring break in March. I *should* be able to get the bike built by the end of spring break (hoping that the longer I can't work on it, the more inspired I will be to work all out given the opportunity). One advantage is that in warmer weather (March should be), it will be easier for me to set up my workstand outside (on the covered patio) and have more space to work in. DST starts in mid March this year as well, giving me longer working hours. I also 'lose' one class in March as it lasts only half of the semester; although I pick up a class (to teach) in the second half of the semester although it is only 2 1/2 hours a week and class I lose takes up almost 6 hours as week which eats up a couple of mornings. No point in getting the fork sawwed off as I'll also have the bike shop set the star nut and (possibly) the crown race; both of which will arrive with the headset. No point in getting started on possible work on my road bike as I needed to have the TT bike built (to have something fast to ride) before I start disabling my road bike. What I can do is double and triple check everything else I have planned to make certain I haven't made any more errors (like I already did in buying a regular threadless headset), working ahead on school stuff (ha!) to the degree I can once I have my course syllabus information next week, and getting some of the odds and ends of parts laying around 'just in case I needed them' together to sell on ebay. I've also been taking it easy somewhat with training (in the middle of a 10 week cycle of strength/weight training that is kicking my a#s) and I'm going to need to start upping miles and intensity in all three triathlon disciplines to get ready for the race or races that I wanted this bike for in the first place.
Like everything else I've done in working on bikes, this has, so far, provided several learning experiences which should, in turn, better prepare me for doing things in the future (I tend to think I learn better by making mistakes than I would if everything somehow fell into place perfectly).
Coming up: pedals; which cyclometer to use
I finally can report some progress on the bike build job. Bottom bracket, crankset and derailleurs are installed (although no doubt much adjustment will be needed to the latter once chain and cables are installed.) For the most part, I referred to Park Tools' website for building order and general directions. Another favorite source is Lennard Zinn's "Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance" (2nd edition, new in 2006). I have three volumes of the four volume Barnetts manual, but, unfortunately began to accumulate these just before the update to the current 5th edition so find the older version (dates about 1996 I believe) a little less helpful than some newer information I can access. I am at a stopping point, however, as I await a headset (more on this in the next post). I am also, sooner rather than later, going to have to make a decision on the sizing of the fork steerer tube which may be a little difficult as I have never yet had a bike set up exclusively for time trial/triathlon riding (i.e., with bar end shifters installed in the aero bars rather than clip on aero bars on a road bike).
DISCLAIMER: Any product information included in this and other posts is, for the most part based, on my own experiences and/or opinions. I attempt to describe the rationales behind my decision-making, but my experiences and needs are unique so I hope no one takes anything I say as a recommendation to use (or not to use) given products. I provide links for further information and reference only, not as suggestions for purchase. I attempt to research thoroughly before making purchases (looking at both product/performance reviews and price comparisons) and I would encourage everyone else to do the same.
In the previous post, I assembled and photographed the various components. I was surprised as I accumulated parts how well most of the pieces of an entire bicycle fit in a small box. Bars, aero bars, stem and seat post are all by Profile Design, who have a large presence among triathletes and also manufacture accessories in what I consider an affordable price range, although you can spend quite a lot if you want on some of the carbon parts. Over time, I've grown to like the Fast Forward seat post, and used one when I was riding a road bike with clip on aero bars last summer. I chose the T2 + aero bar and companion T2 wing base bar as I prefer two piece aero bars and I wanted to give myself as flat a position as possible. The T2+ satisfied both of those conditions. I am still not certain as far as stem length goes as I was most recently riding aero position on the 2001 Schwinn Supersport mentioned in a prior post, as it has a quill stem. I'm using a 110 mm on my road bike so bought a 100 mm to start with - it is a Profile Design Lava (OS) which I chose largely because it is looks good with the base bar.
The grouppo for this bike is largely Shimano Ultegra 9 speed. I made this decision based on the fact that I could get 9 speed components for a great price since Shimano has shifted (no pun intended) to 10 speed. The price difference between Dura Ace and Ultegra, even looking at 9 speed components, is still significant, and I've observed great performance and reliability from Ultegra parts. The minimal weight difference just doesn't seem terribly significant to me. The most expensive part of a normal road grouppo, the shifter/brake levers, aren't relevant in this situation. The bar end shifters I purchased are Dura Ace (I don't believe Shimano makes any other model) and I have both a Dura Ace and an Ultegra cassette, each 11-23. (I plan to use the Dura Ace on my 'good' wheels and put the Ultegra on another set of road wheels I'll use as training/back ups for this bike.) I have ridden with an 11-23 9 speed cassette for a few years now (although I swapped it for a 12-28 in New Mexico), and it seems to provide a good enough range for me, especially in the relatively flat part of the country I live in now. I'm using Cane Creek aero brake levers (the less expensive ones, not the carbon ones), and I have my choice of a Shimano Dura Ace or Sram Power Link chain. (The power link is a lot easier to work with if you have the Park Tools Master Link Pliers.)
I will be riding on Neuvation C 38 C carbon clincher wheels.
I raved about another set of Neuvations in a prior post - I had already decided to buy the carbon wheels and bought the M28s for my cyclocross bike at the same time. I considered going with tubulars but I have no experience at all with tubular wheels/tires, the tires are really expensive, and I had read that there aren't great adhesive choices for carbon rims yet. I also preferred having a non carbon braking surface which these clinchers offer (pads for carbon cost quite a bit more). Neuvation makes a deeper rim clincher (C 48 C) but I have never liked valve extensions and I figured it would be easier and cheaper to find tubes to fit the 38s. (Another factor is that there is a price difference between the C 38s and the C 48s as well.) I have had lots of flats, including flats in races, so I tend to think not only of prevention to the extent possible, but also of speed and ease of changing tubes should it become necessary. If anything, I erred on the side of being conservative when choosing wheels. I think the Neuvations are about the most competitively priced carbon wheels around although they are still, relatively speaking, quite expensive. I was also very pleased with the service I received dealing with John Neugent; it was nice to deal with a small business and the business owner rather than a some corporation. And I got a free wheelbag, too!
coming up: headset surprise! what I think about pedals; two cyclometers to choose from
Some may wonder why I decided to build my TT bike using a 5-6 year old Schwinn aluminum frame. Price definitely had something to do with it - the Factory frame was an absolute steal when I purchased it. But I had some prior knowledge of and experience with Schwinn bikes, not only the Factory, but also the 2001 Super Sport I've photographed for this post. (It has the distinction of being the 'trainer bike' during the winter months.)
When I decided to buy a bicycle in February of 2002 after not having one for 20 years or so, the closest bike store to my apartment was a Schwinn store. (It was also a landscape business.) I bought a 2002 Sierra hybrid bike with 700c wheels, smooth but large tires, z-brakes and twist shifters. I was, at that time, put off by the idea of 'skinny tires' and drop bars although my last bike had been a standard 1970s style ten speed. I enjoyed riding the Sierra that spring and started to get interested in both touring and trying a sprint triathlon. It was during a 36-mile 'Tour de Cure' that I started to see the real limitations of the hybrid. No matter how hard I tried, I could keep up with the road bikes, even rolling downhill. That bike was just plain slower. (I had no idea about how chainring and cassette sizes came into play at this point, it was simply the difference in rolling speed that I noticed.) About a week before my first ever triathlon, I stopped back at the Schwinn store to look at the 3 road bikes they had when I bought the Sierra. To the credit of the original bike salesman, he tried to get me to buy a road bike - he must have seen something in me that told him I wouldn't be satisfied with the hybrid. At this point, in early June, the road bike stock was down to 1. (It wasn't a very large dealer in a fairly competitive city; I imagine they sold far more hybrids or cruisers than anything else.) The original guy I bought the Sierra from wasn't there and had been replaced by two people who I guessed were mountain bike riders as they seemed to know very little about road bikes. When I asked about size, they assured me that medium, which was what the one road bike was, would be fine. I was given an explanation of how to shift with STI levers, took the bike for a spin in the parking lot and bought it. While it wasn't the fastest, best, lightest (ha!) or even state of the art (quill stem; 8 speed Sora components with Tektro brakes) for its time, it was a comfortable, faster (esp compared to the Sierra), reliable, seemingly well built bike that took me through my first season of sprint triathlons/duathlons and some progressively longer touring rides (longest that season was just under 80 miles). I didn't have any great triathlon results, but can't blame the bike; my mediocre running and awful swimming had a lot to do with that. I did have an age group win in a late season duathlon, largely thanks to much improved running as well as the extremely hilly bike course kept the pace down overall. Even after replacing this bike with a Dura Ace equipped (9 speed) with carbon fork and chainstays (that is pounds and pounds lighter) I still like the 'feel' of the Schwin Super Sport, and have found it especially well suited for riding with clip on aero bars and a Profile Design Fast Forward seatpost. It has a compact frame with a sloping top tube and sometimes I think it is faster than my good bike, and not just at rolling downhill. So, when deciding to build a bike just for time trial/triathlon riding, I wanted something more similar to the Super Sport in size and shape. The Schwinn Factory frame doesn't have quite as much slope in the top tube, but is more similar than different when compared to the Super Sport. I didn't really want an all carbon bike; still have mixed feelings about going that direction. While weight is important, at a certain level it becomes a little less significant for me as I have averaged about 110 lb in weight and sometimes, especially in high wind, I like to feel a solid amount of bicycle weight under me. Still, my good bike is just over 17 lbs (unencumbered by water bottles and the seat bag with tools and tire change gear I carry) and I'm not expecting my TT bike to build up to be much different than that. And, I took the advice I've seen a few times and put way (waaaay) more money into the wheels than the frame.
Next post: pieces and parts.
It didn't turn out to be all that easy to find a frame painter. I had begun making inquiries in New Mexico and was told to try a paint/powder coat shop (not bicycle specific) and also given the name of a frame building who 'might' paint or know someone who did. Other suggestions included trying auto body shops. However, since my residence in NM was temporary (18 months) I put the bike building process (more parts just meant more things to pack and move) on hold for the time being. Due to issues (including hurricane Katrina), I didn't get going right away after relocating either. But, after about a year living in the southeast, I finally had slightly over survival level income, and could anticipate having some time, and had developed some specific goals relating to my amateur racing so I started to again explore frame painting options.
This was a project I had never considered doing myself. I have known a couple of people in my life who worked on cars and am aware of not only equipment but environment (dust free) issues. I had also read enough to be aware of the need to prepare and paint a bike frame carefully (keeping paint out of the insides of the tubes) so I had a sense that, while an auto body shop might present an low cost option, it wouldn't necessarily be a good one.
I searched frame painters on the Internet for some time. I also had the added issue of trying to determine what paint job I wanted. I knew that I didn't want a re-creation of the original Schwinn Factory paint (yellow with black 'racing stripes' in the decals) and I was leaning toward something black or silver. I liked the way matte finishes looked (I've seen Trek bikes in both matte black and matte dark blue) and had pretty well decided that I wanted a matte black until I determined that was too close in appearance to many of the Kestral frames I'd seen, and I wasn't trying to make this bike look like something else. (I had likewise rejected silver because that figures in the standard Litespeed color scheme.) I spotted a dark purple paint job on one frame painter's web site and had basically decided to go with an all over purple and hope that the decals could be reproduced without the black stripes. I found no locationally close frame painters (although there may or may not be one in the New Orleans area which isn't too terribly far for me; but I couldn't determine if they were back in business post-Katrina) so I started inquiries via email. Between the time I began my search (Sept-Oct) and the time of my serious inquiries (Oct-Nov), two the painters' web sites disappeared. Another web site had a home page only but none of the links worked. I'll admit to some laziness (or lack of time) at this point; I didn't go through a lot of effort to try to track these businesses down or call them. But I figured that either: they were not doing well and/or were out of business, or; they were keeping so busy that they no longer needed a web presence. I fired out emails to the active sites giving the basics and asking for quotes for the paint (and return shipping) and go only one (prompt) reply. (I heard from some places much later on.) Jack Kane not only emailed me back quickly but also recommended that I not go with a 'plain' paint job. He referenced his gallery
and I began to see this paint job in a whole different light. If I had had the money to buy a whole new bike, the custom build options from Kane Racing Bicycles are about endless and definitely unique. (One of these days, after I'm through with school.....).
From start to finish, the painting process was a smooth as possible. I sketched out a design, based on some of the gallery bikes and also using the project one feature of the Trek web site
to look at color combinations, sent it via priority mail, called with a CC # after it was done, and quickly got it back via UPS. Not everyone wants a frame that is mostly purple with bright pink and green accents, but I'm happy with it (the color scheme was entirely my idea). Jack also carried the design onto the fork and had decals made in white to show up on the dark background. I'm really pleased to have found someone who does quality work because there are a couple of other bikes in the house that suffered some nicks in their paint from transport (including a couple of long distance moves) and may well be candidates for frame painting in the future.
Once I got the frame back, I was ready to get started (I had been accumulating pieces and parts since September) but for two things: Xmas travel and no derailleur hanger.
I took care of the latter with the help of derailleurhanger.com
which may not have the lowest prices, but has a great selection of derailleur hangers for slightly older frames like this one and provided excellent service and prompt delivery. I returned home just before the beginning of the New Year and found all of the bike parts anxiously awaiting my attention.
Coming up: why this frame? the rest of the parts; getting started with the build job
